Tonight's Dinner: Post-Hurricane Pasta

We've been on vacation in California for the past few weeks, enjoying some excellent pizza and unbelievable Chinese food. Our lovely home exchangers put away all of our lawn furniture before fleeing to the Philadelphia airport ahead of Irene, and we breezed back into town on Monday night, just a few hours after Sag Harbor had its power restored. What good timing! I hardly noticed evidence of a storm until I walked over to the IGA this morning and saw that they were out of everything refrigerated. They won't be getting deliveries until tomorrow. Thank goodness for Bette and Dale. I drove over to their farm stand (scary downed tree on Jermain Avenue!), bought some cherry tomatoes and salad greens, and made some pasta with raw tomato sauce for dinner. Here is the recipe:

Post-Hurricane Penne with Cherry Tomatoes, Garlic, and Basil
Serves 4

Salt
12 ounces penne
1 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered
1/2 cup pitted Kalamata olives, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/3 cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/2 cup basil leaves, roughly torn
1 ablespoon fresh oregano leaves
Ground black pepper

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the penne until just tender.
2. While the pasta is cooking, combine the cherry tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, vinegar, basil, and oregano in a large bowl. Toss with the hot pasta, season with salt and ground black pepper. Serve immediately.

Tonight's Dinner: Couscous with Carrots

I picked up a new cookbook, Spice, at Bookhampton yesterday. Although I haven't had a chance to cook from it yet, I was inspired by Ana Sortun's formula for the Moroccan Ras el Hannout to spice up my carrots from Bette and Dale's with cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, ginger, and paprika before adding them to some whole wheat couscous I bought at Provisions this morning. Little lamb meatballs covered with sesame seeds and a local spinach salad dressed with lemon juice and olive oil rounded out our dinner.

Couscous with Carrots
Serves 4 as a side dish

1 cup whole wheat couscous
2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped
3 scallions, white and light green parts, finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/8 teaspoon ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
Pinch saffron threads (optional)
1 1/2 cups water
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1. Place the couscous in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat until lightly toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
2. Add the carrots, scallions, olive oil, and salt and cook, covered, until the vegetables are soft, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until golden around the edges, another 2 to 3 minutes.
3. Add the garlic, paprika, turmeric, cumin, cinnamon, ginger, and saffron if using and cook until fragrant, about 30 minutes. Stir in the water, turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Stir in the couscous, cover, remove from the heat, and let stand 12 minutes.
4. Sprinkle the lemon juice over the couscous, fluff with a fork, and season with salt.

Tonight's Dinner: Pan-Fried Gnocchi and Local Spinach

On my way home from Bridgehampton this afternoon, I stopped at Bette and Dale's to take a peak inside their cooler. I finally got my hands on a bag of local spinach. (There was beautiful baby kale, too. Hope they're still selling it later in the week--that's going to be the subject of my next Newsday column.) I had already picked up some gnoccchi and leeks at Citarella's, so I decided to pan-fry the gnocchi and serve them on a bed of sauteed spinach and leeks. Easy. Here is the recipe:

Pan-Fried Gnocchi with Spinach and Leeks
Serves 4

Salt
1 pound fresh potato gnocchi
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 leeks, white and light green parts, washed and finely chopped
1 pound spinach, washed, coarse stems removed
Salt
Ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound potato gnocchi
Parmesan for serving

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the gnocchi and cook until just soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain well and set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and heat through. Scrape into a bowl and cover to keep warm.
3. Melt the butter in the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the gnocchi in a single layer and cook until golden on both sides, shaking the pan occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with salt.
4. Arrange the spinach on serving plates, top with the gnocchi, and serve immediately with Parmesan on the side.

Celebrating the Spring Equinox with What Should Have Been Spring's First Pizza

Can you believe the boldness of these turkeys, who were making their way from backyard to backyard along my block this morning? They were big and scary. I don't live in Sag Harbor Village to be close to wild life! If only I had stuck to my plan of visiting Bette and Dale's at 10am, I would have missed this terrifying sight. And I also would have been able to buy some local spinach. By the time I got to the stand at 4pm, it was gone. I had planned to wilt the spinach on top of my pizza (which I topped with 6 ounces of a delicious Gruyere-like Italian cow's milk cheese from Cavaniola's) a few minutes before pulling it from the oven. Instead, I used a few handfuls of baby arugula from the IGA, and drizzled the finished pizza with olive oil before serving. Great, but not the perfect pizza for the Spring equinox.

Java Nation Flyer of the Week

When I saw this flyer at Java Nation today, I felt like calling the number and saying, "Forget babysitting and go into advertising!" What a cute and seasonal drawing! It made me rush over to Bette and Dale's (1726 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike) for a half-dozen fresh organic eggs. In no time, I had made some egg salad with fennel and pancetta, which I enjoyed on a toasted ciabatta roll from the IGA. Here is the recipe:

Egg Salad Sandwiches with Fennel and Pancetta
Serves 4

4 pieces panceta, diced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teapsoon Dijon mustard
Salt
Ground black pepper
8 large eggs, hard-boiled, cooled, peeled, and chopped
1/2 fennel bulb, trimmed, tough outer layers removed, finely chopped
4 ciabatta rolls, split and lightly toasted

1. Cook the pancetta in a small skillet until crisp. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Discard all but 2 teaspoons fat from the pan, add garlic, and cook until just fragrant.
2. Scrape the garlic into a large bowl, add the mayonnaise, lemon juice, mustard, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste. Stir until smooth.
3. Add the eggs, fennel, and pancetta and gently stir, adjust seasonings, and serve immediately on toasted ciabatta rolls or refrigerate for up to 6 hours before serving.

Hazardous Street Sign

I was so eager to buy my first pint of local strawberries at Bette and Dale's (1726 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike) that I almost drove into oncoming traffic when I saw this sign while driving south towards Scuttlehole Road earlier today. After safely turning around and parking at the stand, I did snag some of the early harvest.

My New Pig

Yesterday I took delivery on my quarter share of a heritage breed pig from Harry Ludlow's Fairview Farm (69 Horsemill Lane, Bridgehampton). That's almost 65 pounds of pork in my freezer. How long will it last? We will see. I'll start off slowly tonight, sauteeing 3 ounces (out of 4 pounds!) of pancetta along with some baby kale from Bette and Dale's (1726 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike), to serve alongside my Tuscan beans and whole wheat boule from Cavaniola's. I'll post the recipe tomorrow, the first of a weekly feature on how to eat a quarter of a pig. Stay tuned.

Welcome Home, Bette and Dale

On my way back into town this morning I noticed with excitement that Sag Harbor Village's own organic farm stand was open for business. I didn't see Bette or Dale (it was raining; no, it was pouring) when I bought my spinach and scallions, so I'll say hello now, online. Here is what I made with your lovely spinach and scallions:

Boiled Arborio Rice with Spinach and Mozzarella
Serves 4 as a side dish (you can double the recipe for a vegetarian main course)

Arborio rice can be boiled like pasta, if you'd rather not spend the energy stirring risotto. Save the leftovers and tomorrow you can form the rice into patties, coat with egg and bread crumbs, and pan fry for lunch.

1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
Salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 scallions, white and light green parts
12 ounces (one bag) baby spinach from Bette and Dale's, stemmed, washed, and chopped
3 scallions, white and light green parts
6 ounces (one and a half little balls from Cavaniola's) fresh mozzarella, shredded
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add the rice and a tablespoon of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 15 to 17 minutes.
2. While the rice is boiling, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the scallions and cook until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the spinach and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted.
3. Drain the rice and place it in a large bowl. Add the mozzarella, Parmesan, and spinach mixture, tossing until the mozzarella is melted and the ingredients are well-combined. Serve immediately.

Local Strawberry Shortcake

Because my older daughter’s birthday coincides with strawberry season, we always celebrate with strawberry shortcake. It's her favorite, and it's much quicker to make than a layer cake. But I'm warning you, inserting the candles is tricky. Thanks to Bette and Dale (visit their stand at 1726 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike) for setting aside two pints of berries for me yesterday morning so we could enjoy this truly local cake last night.

Local Strawberry Shortcake
Serves 4

For the most tender biscuits, make sure your butter and milk are chilled and just mix though dough until it barely starts to come together. Baking the biscuits at a high temperature will give them the best rise. But watch them carefully in the oven. I know from unfortunate experience that at 425 degrees they will go from golden brown to black in a minute or two.

For the biscuits:
1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into bits and chilled
1/3 cup milk
2 teaspoons white sanding sugar or granulated sugar

For the filling:
1 pint strawberries, stemmed and sliced
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream, chilled
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon vanilla


1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and brown sugar. Add the butter and mix with an electric mixer on the low until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the milk and mix just until a rough dough forms. Do not overmix!
2. Drop the biscuits in 4 equal mounds on the parchment paper. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons sanding sugar or granulated sugar. Bake until the biscuits are golden, about 18 minutes. Slide the parchment paper onto a wire rack and let the biscuits cool while you make the filling.
3. Combine the strawberries and sugar in a bowl and let stand, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved, about 30 minutes. Combine the cream, 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, and the vanilla and whip until the cream just holds stiff peaks.
4. Use a sharp serrated knife to cut off the top halves of the biscuits and set them aside (don’t worry if some of them are crumbly—you will be able to put everything back together beautifully soon). Spoon half the berries over the biscuit bottoms, spoon the whipped cream on top of the berries, and spoon the remaining berries over the whipped cream. Replace the biscuit tops and serve immediately.

Bulletin: First Pint of Local Strawberries Purchased in Sag Harbor Today

Well, I was wrong yesterday about being a week or two away from strawberry season. Bette and Dale's is growing some early varieties, and picking started today. I went to their stand (Bette & Dale's, 1726 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike) for some salad this morning, and walked away with their very first pint. Quantities are limited now (there will be more in the next week or two), so stop by early. Same goes for the Farmers' Market on Saturday (9 to 12 on Bay Streeet), where the berries are sure to sell out soon after the market opens.

Coming soon: My own recipe for Strawberry Shortcake

Tonight's Dinner Before the Middle School Concert

We had to eat early tonight, to get to Pierson Middle School for a seven o'clock concert. I made Pasta with Creamy Tomato Sauce, salad from Bette and Dale's (there were fights over the edible flowers), and this quick-and-easy olive-and-rosemary ciabatta. No time for dessert. The 8th grade band's selection from "The Barber of Seville" wouldn't wait.

The concert was short and sweet.The 8th grade chorus members were absolute songbirds. The 8th grade band showed its versatility by playing a march and Under the Sea before conquering opera. The surprise highlight of the evening was the finale, a performance by a 7th-grade trio of electric guitarists along with an excellent drummer. Although billed in the program as "Rock Ensemble," the group's leader emphatically informed the audience that they were not "Rock Ensemble," but "Writer's Block." Their original songs displayed the breadth of their interests, ranging in subject matter from the Devil to snow days.

Olive and Rosemary Ciabatta
Makes 2 ciabatta breads

Ciabatta is a great bread to make when you don't want to work too hard. You knead the dough in seconds in a food processor. Instead of shaping it, you just invert the whole mass onto a baking sheet and cut it in two. The loaves spread and rise in the oven, free-form. Unbleached all-purpose flour (I buy the King Arthur brand from the IGA) instead of bread flour gives the ciabatta its chewy but soft texture. I used pitted green olives from Citarella (another time saver) and rosemary from my patio. Don't be alarmed at the stickiness of the dough. A high proportion of water (and a lot of olive oil) is what makes it bubbly and moist.

3/4 cup warm water
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for oiling the pan and brushing the loaves
1/3 cup pitted and chopped green olives
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1. Combine the water and yeast in the work bowl of a food processor and pulse once. Add the flour, salt, sugar, and oil and process until the dough forms a smooth ball. Continue to process for 30 seconds. Add the olives and rosemary and pulse 2 or 3 times to distribute. The dough will be very sticky.
2. Oil a 7-x-11-inch baking dish. Scrape the dough into the dish and pat it with floured fingertips to push and stretch it across the bottom of the dish. Cover with plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free spot until it has doubled in size, about 2 hours.
3. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet. Uncover the dough and place the baking sheet, right side down, on top of the dough. Invert the dish onto the baking sheet and shake once or twice to release the dough.
3. Use a sharp chef's knife to cut the dough into two skinny rectangles. Use the edge of the knife to separate the dough pieces from each other by at least 3 inches. Sprinkle the loaves with flour and drape lightly with plastic wrap. Let stand until the dough is puffy and risen by about 50 percent, 40 minutes to 1 hour.
4. While the dough is rising, preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Remove the plastic wrap and bake the loaves until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Brush the hot loaves with some olive oil and let cool completely before slicing and serving.

Today's Lunch

I saw this sign for free range eggs yesterday at Sag Harbor's very own organic farm stand, Bette & Dale's, (1726 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike) right next door to Bay Burger. I returned this morning because I couldn't stop thinking about truly fresh eggs, soft-scrambled with goat cheese. I also bought a beautiful bunch of fresh chives, blossoms still attached. Couldn't wait for dinner, so I made eggs for lunch. Oh my God, I was starving and they were good! Next time you are headed into town, pull over (you can park at Bay Burger; they don't mind) and see what's fresh. Or look for Bette and Dale's stand at the Sag Harbor Farmer's Market on Saturdays beginning next week.

Scrambled Eggs with Goat Cheese and Chives
Serves 2

Whisk the eggs so they're extra fluffy when cooked. And take them off the heat just as soon as they are solid. I would have made this for dinner, but I couldn't wait. Sorry, kids.

6 eggs
1/4 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon butter

1. Whisk together the eggs, milk, and salt in a medium bowl. Melt the butter in a medium-size frying pan over high heat. When it is bubbling, add the eggs and turn the heat down to medium. Sprinkle the cheese and chives over the eggs.
2.Push the eggs around with a spatula, scraping up the cooked parts and allowing the liquid to flow to the bottom of the pan. Cook this way until the eggs are just set, no more than a minute or a minute and a half. Serve immediately.